Join me on a journey tackling one of the T25’s notoriously difficult areas – the trailing arms. Sparks fly whilst I remove hub nuts, disconnect brake lines, snap bleed nipples and meet the tin worm.
If your bolts are seized like mine, I recommend using a power saw to cut them off. I used an angle grinder but struggled with reach and control in such a tight area.
When fitting new Powerflex set I use the GoWesty technique to fit the bushings with a 30cm M12 threaded rod, nuts and washers. The only difference is I use jubilee clips to compress the bushing, instead of an tapered pipe (or the specialist 3053 VW tool).
To calculate the 500Nm force for the hub nut I used the following formula to calculate where I should stand on the breaker bar:
Force x Distance = Torque
80kg (my weight) x 64cm = 502Nm
Useful resources and research:
- Fitting OE rear trailing arm bushes without special tools
- Servicing Rear Brakes
- Rear Brake Backplate
Part numbers in this post:
- Trailing Arm Bush – T3 [Polyeurethane] – 251501131A
- Trailing Arm / Left – 251501401E
- Trailing Arm / Right – 251501402E
- Trailing Arm Mount / Left – 251803197
- Trailing Arm Mount / Right – 251803198
- Hub Nut – T3 / Rear – N90149601
- Split Pin – N0125482
As mentioned in the video, you could use T4 Trailing Arm Inner Bushings instead which are a split design so really easy to fit. They are the same part number (251501131A).
2 thoughts on “Trailing Arm Bushing Replacement”
Ive tried a powersaw but the blades just won’t cut through the hardened bolts. Looks like an angle grinder with cutting blade is the only way.
Hey, just been doing the bushes on front and back suspension on my T25. Your videos were, clear, concise, and very helpful.
Never want to look at another bush again. 😂.
Thanks a lot.